here is my process for modifying "rigid body / non folding" SX70's to use 600 intregal film packs. no filters required and it is not necessary to remove the photocell lens and replace it with clear plastic. this mod does not disable the light/dark adjustment function on the camera. all rigid body models employ the same housing and primary photocell filter, which was calibrated at the factory. the primary photocell filter is what we will adjust. this mod is very simple and will work on the following models:
USA Models:
Encore.
OneStep.
OneStep Plus.
Presto.
Pronto. (including the following models of B, Extra, Plus, RF, S, and SM)
Pronto Sonar OneStep. (addendum) > http://unclear.livejournal.com/21321.htm l?thread=51529#t51529
Super Clincher.
TheButton.
TimeZero OneStep.
TimeZero Pronto AF.
International Models:
Model 500, 1000, 1000S, 1500, 2000, 3000.
Instant 1000, 1000Deluxe.
Sonar AutoFocus.
SuperColor 1000, 1000 Deluxe, AutoFocus, AutoFocus3500.
as an example, here are two photos, taken before and after the mod. both were under filtered light (overcast) with the photo cell at neutral, no flash.

quite a difference.
USA Models:
Encore.
OneStep.
OneStep Plus.
Presto.
Pronto. (including the following models of B, Extra, Plus, RF, S, and SM)
Pronto Sonar OneStep. (addendum) > http://unclear.livejournal.com/21321.htm
Super Clincher.
TheButton.
TimeZero OneStep.
TimeZero Pronto AF.
International Models:
Model 500, 1000, 1000S, 1500, 2000, 3000.
Instant 1000, 1000Deluxe.
Sonar AutoFocus.
SuperColor 1000, 1000 Deluxe, AutoFocus, AutoFocus3500.
as an example, here are two photos, taken before and after the mod. both were under filtered light (overcast) with the photo cell at neutral, no flash.

quite a difference.
the model for this tutorial is the OneStep and is the same for all models previously listed. this mod requires removeing the face of the camera and making an adjustment and replaceing the face.
tools needed: putty or butter knife, pin or icepick.
time frame: 10 minutes.
throughout the procedure, keep the camera faceing upwards
1- open the film bay door.

2-squeeze the top and bottom of the case as shown to create a gap.

3-insert your flat blade as shown and angle out, to lift the face past its clip. repeat on other side.

4-lift face off. you can now see the tabs that hold the face on. one on each side.

5- You are now going to adjust the primary photocell filter, which is preset at the factory.
take a pointed tool, ie, pin, icepick or a hobbyknife and rotate the gear that can be seen to the right of the photocell eye. rotation is counter clock wise or, since the exposed gear is on the right, rotate it upwards until it stops. it doesn't travel far. this sets the primary filter at its lightest possible setting.

modification complete. its now time to put the face back on the camera. with the camera facing up as shown in pics 2, 3 & 4 just drop the face back on. you may notice that the shutter button is on a floating connection, so it may be necessary to steer the button into the button opening, so the face will travel all the way down and the holding tabs in pic 4 seat properly. the view finder may move slightly as well, if it does steer it into position as the face goes back on. your good to go.
600 FILM use in the SX-70 models listed above. there are four protrusions or tabs on the bottom, back side of 600 film carriers. sand or cut off the two outer tabs, or all four if you like, so the film carrier will insert into the camera.
for those of you that would like to know a bit more about what has been done here......................
with inconsistancies through the years of manufacture, constant improvements in the quality of componants and film as well, there was a window left open to calibrate the final product to compensate for these slight variations. as film or componants changed, for production purposes, there was a need to compensate without changing everything in the camera. this adjustment mechanism included a primary, four section density filter, just in front of the photocell, which was calibrated at the factory to offset any of the slight variations. the four sections of this filter consisted of 8 degrees of filtration, or, a two stop difference per panel. these models were set approximately half way between the second and third panel, or, the middle.
since 600 film is approximately four times faster than SX-70 time zero film, we are adjusting the filter to change the way the photocell reads light conditions. from the factory setting of the middle of panel two and three, we are adjusting it to where just half of the first panel (lightest) is covering the photocell, resulting in a difference of four stops. its really quite beautiful in its simplicity. here is a pic to show what you have adjusted.

tools needed: putty or butter knife, pin or icepick.
time frame: 10 minutes.
throughout the procedure, keep the camera faceing upwards
1- open the film bay door.

2-squeeze the top and bottom of the case as shown to create a gap.

3-insert your flat blade as shown and angle out, to lift the face past its clip. repeat on other side.

4-lift face off. you can now see the tabs that hold the face on. one on each side.

5- You are now going to adjust the primary photocell filter, which is preset at the factory.
take a pointed tool, ie, pin, icepick or a hobbyknife and rotate the gear that can be seen to the right of the photocell eye. rotation is counter clock wise or, since the exposed gear is on the right, rotate it upwards until it stops. it doesn't travel far. this sets the primary filter at its lightest possible setting.

modification complete. its now time to put the face back on the camera. with the camera facing up as shown in pics 2, 3 & 4 just drop the face back on. you may notice that the shutter button is on a floating connection, so it may be necessary to steer the button into the button opening, so the face will travel all the way down and the holding tabs in pic 4 seat properly. the view finder may move slightly as well, if it does steer it into position as the face goes back on. your good to go.
600 FILM use in the SX-70 models listed above. there are four protrusions or tabs on the bottom, back side of 600 film carriers. sand or cut off the two outer tabs, or all four if you like, so the film carrier will insert into the camera.
for those of you that would like to know a bit more about what has been done here......................
with inconsistancies through the years of manufacture, constant improvements in the quality of componants and film as well, there was a window left open to calibrate the final product to compensate for these slight variations. as film or componants changed, for production purposes, there was a need to compensate without changing everything in the camera. this adjustment mechanism included a primary, four section density filter, just in front of the photocell, which was calibrated at the factory to offset any of the slight variations. the four sections of this filter consisted of 8 degrees of filtration, or, a two stop difference per panel. these models were set approximately half way between the second and third panel, or, the middle.
since 600 film is approximately four times faster than SX-70 time zero film, we are adjusting the filter to change the way the photocell reads light conditions. from the factory setting of the middle of panel two and three, we are adjusting it to where just half of the first panel (lightest) is covering the photocell, resulting in a difference of four stops. its really quite beautiful in its simplicity. here is a pic to show what you have adjusted.



Comments
thank you!
But i've got a problem.
I did as above but my photos came out blur.
like i got shaky hands.
except its 1000 instead of onestep.
the film still takes quite a while to come out too though.
is it normal?
since the filter adjustment is correct then i would consider light source to be suspect. unless flash is used or subject is brightly lit, the photocell will read the light level and adjust accordingly. simply put, flash or bright light will result in a shorter exposure time and result in a crisp image. if light levels are not sufficient, the exposure extends and will result in motion blur without a steady hand or secure mount. remember, (light adjustment) darkest setting is shortest exposure, lightest setting is the longest exposure
Edited at 2008-01-10 04:37 pm (UTC)
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=6dr
(Sorry about the dodgy drawing, I didn't have a digicam on me).
Any idea where it might go?
got it (i think). it is related to the film counter and is what allows the mechanism to count and reset to zero when unloading a spent film cartridge. from what i see, the entire part did not come out of your camera, the actual part is bigger and only a piece of it came out. i do not think that it will stop you from useing the camera, you just won't know how many prints are left
Edited at 2008-02-05 04:35 pm (UTC)
Edited at 2008-02-05 11:54 pm (UTC)
Thanks!
http://flickr.com/photos/ikuanna_gallery/
Thanks for a technic . This is very helpful .
this is me , who poat this massage.
just want to shar more .(sorry for my english - it is not my mother language)
for Sonar onestep open in the top part first . that had words auto and manual . put it out then to open the front the lock is in the buttom on a part that it is open film pack and the last lock it is in the top of camera (same place that you open auto manual) .
Now you can open it . the adjust is little hide if you model had red light warning it is under it.
Hope this help.
1-facing the camera, you will be looking to the right of the photocell eye, (light/dark adjuster). the gear is directly behind, at the same height, off to the right.
2-rotate the camera to the left, so you are peeking in at an angle, between the case and the camera components, just under the viewfinder.
3- it sits back approximately 1/4" to 3/8" and the same distance down from the viewfinder. (the viewfinder does slide out for a better view, just make note of the viewfinders orientation, as it fits in one way only).
3-if all else fails and you can't see it, take your pointy tool and probe in that area, you will be able to determine what is stationary and what moves. once located, move it counter clockwise, or upward, until it stops. (when probeing, use upward movements, so as not to accidently move it down and out of reach).
4-done.
let me know how you make out and don't hesitate if you need any more help. good luck, joe
Edited at 2008-04-16 10:41 pm (UTC)
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q
Can you help?
If it persists, i would check to see if you rotated the gear fully, counter clockwise, until it hits the stop.
Please let me know the results. Initially it seems to just need normal setting adjustment according to light conditions. Joe
PS. i just duplicated the same scene with a slr680se with identical results, indicating it is just a user adjust for light conditions. Do let me know.
Edited at 2008-04-21 04:43 pm (UTC)